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MapGreat Bernera Trail

Distance: 11.25 km
Time:
3-4 hours
Grade:
Moderate
Terrain: Mostly waymarked with sections missing a clear path; can be boggy; return road is along a minor road
Start: Car park at community centre, Breacleit

This is a classic, an absolute must when you're staying on Lewis, one of the islands of the Outer Hebrides. Great Bernera is the largest of several small islands off the shores of Lewis. Just in case you wonder, aye, there is a Little Bernera too, and it's most certainly little compared to Great Bernera.

WaymarksThis walk is described in just about every guidebook, as well as on the Walkhighlands website. And they are absolutely right to list it. It's a great half-day out, with fantastic views, you and the outdoors, and hardly anybody along most of the walk. For all the details, please go to the Walkhighlands page.

The cool thing starts as soon as you drive from Lewis to Great Bernera, as you are officially crossing a bridge over the Atlantic Ocean. How often can you do that? (unless you live there of course, in which case you get to do that pretty often)

The path is waymarked by marker posts sticking out at irregular distances. But no worries, it's difficult to get lost. Somewhere on the horizon, there's always a marker to be discovered. The real difficulty is making any progress at all, as you will simply not be able to keep your eyes of the amazing scenery.
Great Bernera

The thing is, every guide warns for boggy strips along this stretch along the west coast, but you will simply forget all about that after your walk and remember the panorama only: ocean, a loch, a coastline with a will of its own.
Great Bernera

The most stunning picture by far is the end of the path when you descend into Bostadh glen at the end of which a perfectly idyllic beach invites you to come over. We used this breathtaking view to enjoy our sandwiches, in silence. It was beau-ti-ful.
Bostadh glen

The thatched roof you can see is a reconstructed Iron Age house, similar to the ones that were unearthed in the dunes, following a heavy storm in 1993. Bostadh houseThe original houses (five of them) were occupied during the sixth to ninth centuries.
During summer you can visit the house and talk to a guide who spends several months there. Be warned though, peat is being burnt in there and your clothes will smell for several days. I didn't mind; my other half found the smell less appealing. More information is available here.

Time and Tide BellThe beach itself holds another special feature: the Time and Tide Bell. Twelve of those bells were installed along the British coast as part of an art project.

Far more impressive for me though, was the chair on the beach. I thought it was just picture perfect. The sparkling beach, the chair, the clear water and the craggy rocks. What a grand walk that was.
What was that again about boggy sections earlier on?
Great Bernera

Walk back along the road - when you realise soooo many people missed out on a great walk as they simply drive up and down the island to visit Bostadh beach - and have a drink at the café, where you will find more information about Great Bernera itself.
And then drive back, smiling when you cross the Atlantic Ocean yet again. It's a pretty neat feeling.

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